With all of the lovely people I meet on the Camino, we exchange details and then write to each other with our stories, photos and experiences. Here is Bjorn waiting for the train, wishes us a good trip as he makes his way back home. Everyone has different journeys on the Camino. Some people only have a week off work, others have been hiking for 1000 kilometers or more.
This transitional stage could be described as practically a rest. Pilgrims will have the opportunity to spend the day in
.
Very short in distance and without any difficulties to face, the layout
of the journey looks as flat as a plate. It is worth taking the
opportunity to relax and recharge your batteries before confronting the
second week of the
I have decided that aside from the distances and the 'to and from'
destinations listed, the cycling guide for El Camino means nothing!
The ride today was complicated by rain that ended up becoming a storm.
At
first when the rain started, I thought 'what an adventure'! It was nice
to have a break from the heat and enjoy the smells of the wet farmland
and earth that comes with the rain. Then I cried a bit, not out of
sadness, just lots of different emotions. Rain tends to make me
reflective and emotional. People say that everyone cries at least one on
the Camino. I'll believe it.
Update from Babs; finding the wine fountain. That a girl!
I'm
a little tired of the poorly marked path, but I'm also now getting used
to it! I expect to get lost once a day, realise that I am lost and then
make my way back to the path.
There
are meant to be little pictures of a yellow seashell to help you to
know you are on the Camino. Sometimes there are big or little shells in
the concrete path two! At times, instead of the shells, there are
yellow arrows, which are less helpful, especially when at times, there
are two sets of arrows that point in different directions.
I
was reading a story about an American woman who went down the wrong
route, when a guy placed arrows that led to his farm where he murdered
her. Deaths don't happen often on the Camino, but they do occur from
time to time.
The weather was turning crappy and I barely saw anyone one the trail, hardly any walkers or cyclists.
Today
I found another set of two identical arrows, and followed the arrows
which had pilgrims walking down it. I was starting to get cold so I
wanted to keep on going on my trail with as few stops as possible. A few kilometers down the road, there were no shells, no road signs to
Sahagun, and well, just nothing at all really.
Then
it started to storm, hard. I pulled in at the next town I could see.
Most of the little towns will have a little cafe, and I needed to dry
off and get something to eat.
When
the towns are really small and in the middle of nowhere, sometimes you
cannot even tell if a person is home, it's like a ghost town.
By
this point I was shivering and getting worried. These are the stages
you reach before hypothermia, if you don't find a way out quickly.
I saw someone's door ajar and prayed that I was not making a big mistake by going in, but I didn't have many options now.
An
elderly man with injured looking eyes answered the door and I asked if I
could wait in his corridor with my bike while it rained. He was really
kind and let me in. I took off my rain jacket and sat watching the
church service with him on television. He seemed happy to have the
company but I was feeling a but shell shocked and worried.
I
thought about asking for a snack, as I had none left in my bag. I
figure I was past the point of being able to be polite in this state.
First I used the bathroom and sneekily used 'Alejandro's' towel to dry
off a bit (sorry Alejandro). When I came out, Alejandro was smiling and
asked if I would like some warm chocolate milk. I eagerly accepted and
said thank you, and was given some biscuits too. I waited until the
storm lessened, I figured this would be as good as it would get.
Alejandro told me how to turn around and I thanked him profusely for
everything.
I then decided to stick to the road instead of the Camino, as at least the main road has signs. 25km to go.
I'm
not sure if it's my legs getting injured or stronger, but the insides
of my things are sore. Cycling is so interesting as it uses very
different muscles to running. I don't think that all runners are good
cyclists, but I wonder if most cyclists are naturally good runners?
It
was nice to be asked by the only cyclists that I saw down the road,
asked me if I was okay when I was pushing my bike up a hill. I told them
that I was okay, just tired. Even if you feel really crap, and there is
not much that anyone can do to help you, someone asking if you are
okay, means a lot and keeps you going.
I arrived in Sahagun and the hot shower never felt so good.
The
refugios differ a lot in each town, which is fun. They differ in price,
spaciousness and with their amenities. Some include breakfast, some
have better showers. Some are busier than others.
At
my current refugio, my legs are too big for the mattress. There is also
a plastic cover for the pillow (so that staff can easily clean the
pillows and prevent bed bugs). Sorry, I just can't sleep on a plastic
pillow. I am removing the plastic cover and perhaps will pick up some
creepy crawlies.
I am the
only person so far in this giant dormitory. I could really use some
company but there is none here. There is absolutely nothing in this town
it seems, unless if I want to try and get friendly with someone at a
car shop.
It's okay though, this is a part of my journey. I need the hard days.
Buen Camino.
Something lovely happened last night. After I arrived in
Sahagun in the storm, cold and alone, the woman at the albergue was
kind to me from the start. I am going to stop stating that people are
speaking to me in Spanish. Unless if I state that someone is an English
native speaker, then assume that all of my conversations are in Spanish.
I feel that women respect other women who travel alone, as there is a
certain admiration. The woman at the albergue asked me how I was when I
entered the albergue. I said that today was difficult. 'What a question
for me to ask' the woman replied with a sympathetic smile.
I
felt a bit lonely last night and was getting ready for bed, then this
same woman said to me 'I have a room that is conferrable and quiet for
you' and she led me to a private room with a big bed and private
bathroom. I thanked her tremendously and snuck past the male cyclists
who had just arrived and were setting up camp in the dorm.
I
don't need to have a revelation when I reach Santiago to know that God
has always been with me and will continue to be with me. I felt it in
the smiles and kindness of all the pilgrims who I encountered today,
with the lovely little doggie who ran out of his house just to greet me
on my bike. I felt it in the sun, in the ocher red farm fields and in
the streams of sunflowers under a blue sky. My photos here are when I
stopped to have a break and then twirled around the fields just
generally enjoying life. I sing while I cycle and even boogie a bit (as
much as you can possibly dance on a bicycle).
Each day, through the challenges and the fun times, I grow emotionally and physically stronger.
Nothing
makes you appreciate a good day when you have been in a storm the day
before. Also, another cyclist pointed out that my tires were a bit flat.
I finally worked out how to use the awkward bike pimp from Candido, and
cycling is a lot easier now!
I
have arrived at this lovely albergue, packed with pilgrims and run by
enthusiastic and kind volunteers. It costs 7 euros including breakfast.
On a less spiritual note, I need to try and find both bum and lip cream and some padded shorts. Both bum and mouth are on fire.
Wednesday August 30
Day 10. León- Astorga (Kilometres)
Minimum height: 800 meters
Maximum height: 950 meters
Difficulty: Easy
Another very achievable stage both in terms of distance and profile. The terrain becomes flatter as the traveller approaches Astorga. Crossing the Bridge Paso Honroso by bike, despite the irregular stony ground, it is likely to become one of those moments that will be remembered for life.
I woke up in the middle of the night, feeling very hot an confused. I
wonder if this is what all you can eat pizza and soft drink does to you
before bed? Perhaps it is because 100 people are sleeping in a dorm
together.
I have a routine now;
breakfast, pack and dress, cycle. Have a little break every 20 km
(ideally), arrive at my destination, get pilgrims passport stamped, pump
up bike tires, was self, wash stuff, blog, dinner then whatever else I
have energy for (not much).
I
cannot believe I am more than halfway through the journey. Only 5 days
left to go. However the cycling difficulty has been low the last 3 days
and it gets harder again.
I
get a bit teary at the start of the ride each day, it's an emotional
journey. But they are good tears. Every night I feel so exhausted that I
cannot go on and every morning I am keen to get back on the Camino.
Last
night I met Ella, a German girl and some Mexican girls and we had the
all you can eat pizza. Ella annoyed me at first, until she opened up to
me about her vulnerabilities, as I did with her (usual Camino convos).
What I soon realised is that Ella is very young, 23 and she reminds me
of how I was at that age, which I probably why I felt irritated at
first.
The Mexican girls
hired bikes and tried to cycle 100km but had to stop with knee and bum
pain. One of the girls was crying. Its so important to listen to your
body and stop when you need to. As a good experience with less
kilometres is more important that ruining your body. However I
understand when people try and push on when their feet are covered in
blisters and feel disappointed when they have to discontinue or cut back
the journey.
 |
| All you can eat pizza and soft drink with peregrina friends in Leon. |
 |
| This is art. |
On that note I bought some of those tight padded nappy looking cyclist shorts. Its the best 40 euro I have spent in months.
Some
people here are amazing, guys with guts cycling 100km a day. Ella
smokes but hikes 35km every day, and has been hiking since earlier on
in France, so she has already covered over 1000km.
It's
funny hanging with Ella and the girls, they seem to think that 30 is
old. I explain to them that it some ways you feel older when you are
nearly 30, but in other ways, not at all. However I have gotten in a
pattern of often referring to myself as an old woman, I should stop
that.
Leon was beautiful, and so is Astorga.
That's it for me.
Buen Camino,
Rasa
Thursday August 31
Day 11. Astorga – Ponferrada (54 kilometres)
Minimum height: 500 meters
Maximum height: 1504 meters
Difficulty: High
The end of the moor. The route passes through the infinite flat terrain to the highest point on the whole French Way in
Spain and, all in the blink of an eye. The legs suffer once again
during the climb. Lactic acid makes a re appearance. The descent is
really dangerous. To not descend on the road would be completely
irresponsible. A great deal of caution is required on the descent from El Acebo to Molinaseca. A monument at the foot of the Camino reminds travelers of one of the latest victims, a pilgrim German.
During the climb, there are sections with road markings, where it is also advisable to continue on the asphalt.
There is only a few days to go now. My feelings are re
affirmed that I do not like hanging out with big groups of people I
don't know well!
I met a
nice big group of youngens, but it all feels 'too much'. I ended up
paying to go inside the cathedral and palace because I felt inclined to
do some. It's terrible isn't it? That I don't want to pay to go inside
the cathedral in Europe? But I know myself now. I admire cathedrals from the
outside, I'll have a looksie if its free (on the inside). But I'm not
crazy enough about history to pay. It sucks when you start doing things
because you feel you should.
Eventually,
I politely made my exit and walked to a book store where I bought a
romance book on Spanish to practice the language (,hopefully I actually
do it). I also bought one of the only 5 English books in the shop. I
realised later after reading a part of it, that it is super weird and uncomfortably 'sexual' to say the least. I swapped it on the 'books
about Camino' bookshelf in the albergue for a murder mystery. Both these
books do not belong on this shelf!
One
of the lovelist girls, Annie I met (from New Zealand) in the bathroom
while getting ready for bed. Its funny how these things work out. I also
squealed when I bumped in to her Dad Neil by surprise in the communal
bathrooms at 1 in the morning (our first encounter). I bumped in to
Annie and Neil on the trail today. We will keep in touch and meet at the
end of the trail if our dates coincide. I think this is what makes me
happy here, being independent,taking the journey on my own, meeting
people and then touching base again along the way.
Astorga
is very beautiful. I am going to have to start asking about the price
of food and drinks BEFORE I consume them, as I am quite sure the wait
staff are making up prices for me everywhere I go.
Today, our alarm was a loud church version of 'the sounds of silence' by Simon and Gatrfunkel and then hymn's. Its great.
There
were many steep mountains to go up today, and I walked up most of them
with the bike. The other cyclists (who are few and far between) always
check in to see that you are okay and are then encouraging. 'venga'!
'Let's go'/ 'come on!'
I
peddled back 1km up a mountain to check with the next car coming by if I
was on the right track, as the way down looked like it would never end.
I was on the right track and then I 'downhiled' 15km over steep road
cliffs. Incredible! What an adventure! It's an amazing feeling riding
downhill like that.
I
spent a lot of time thinking about what 'the real world' will look for
me at the other end. I'll work it out, we all do. The important thing
is that I continue to take whatever I have learned and experienced with
me here, and incorporate it in to my usual life. Particularly if things
feel tough of boring.
Buen Camino.
Love Rasa
Friday September 1
Day 12. Ponferrada -O Cebreiro (50 kilometres)
Minimum height: 460 meters
Maximum height: 1320 meters
Difficulty: Very High
Along with the baptism of fire in the Pyrenees of Navarre, this day is truly the queen of stages of the Camino de Santiago The mountain is at its finest. The climb to O Cebreiro
is not without its difficulties, it can be completed on the traditional
path, but to leave Las Herrerías, the last village before the ascend,
there are several signs painted on the asphalt to direct cyclists. The
arrival to Galicia compensates the suffering. Except for the arrival to
Villafranca, with the odd slope, the first section of the stage is
peaceful. It is worth reserving strength for the last few kilometres.
Today I reached the highest peak at El Camino - 1320 metres!
Last
night in Ponferrada, I was able go enjoy the company of Oscar and
Sarah, an Aussie and English/ Spanish cycling couple. They are intelligent,
curious, kind, funny and open. They inflated my tires for me as I think my pump
doesn't work. I came back from checking in to my dorm, and voila! Sturdy tires and a smiling couple to enjoy food with. And on Wednesdays you get to see all the attractions for
free! The castle was so beautiful with a lovely little library inside. I
had a 4 bed ladies only dorm at the albergue which only asked for a
donation to stay there. Sara and Oscar are such a delight to talk to, and I wish I could keep them with me on the journey.
Oscar is a cycling enthusiast. He told me he spotted my bike (Candido's bike) somwhere along the camino and said; 'that is a fantastic old school mountain bike'.
Later in the trip Sarah messaged me again and found a photo of a yellow bike that Oscar liked very much, as it turns out, this was my yellow bike parked in Leon!
What
a beautiful day, the most amazing views of Galicia. I enjoyed every
minute. I have been able to experience every kind of temperature,
scenery and terrain.
The morning was foggy and mystical and when the sun came out, it really did feel like god was with me!
I
stopped at a cafe, bracing myself before the big hills before I heading
towards the steep incline of the mountains. I met a young 7 foot tall
Aussie, Steve, who has been doing cycling training for 2 months to
prepare for cycling half of the Camino. I tell Steve that I dont do much
cycling at home but have been cycling since France. This surprises
Steve. I tell Steve that I will wave to him and cheer him on as he
cycles up the mountain and I walk my bike.
But
do you know what? My piece of paper says it is 5km to the top. And I
cycled non stop, up the mountain for 5km until 50km. Then I realised
that the Mountain kept going!
I'm
so happy that I could cycle all that way up. At 50km, the crux, I
couldn't be happier as I met Jen and Jilly, some UK cyclists,as strong
as iron and with hearts of gold. We cycled up the peak together for
another 10km. The view could not be more breathtaking and I could not
have better company.
When we reach O Cebreiro we celebrate by eating our 3 course meal with wine and chat for hours.
And,
Ive bumped in to some Aussies (Jane and Stewart) I met at a cafe days
ago! They are walking the Camino but are short on time. So they for a
train here and will cycle with me tomorrow. The Spanish bike hire place
didn't give them a bike lock, so our 3 bikes are locked together.
I
met Steve back at the albergue. Steve didn't make it up all the hills,
and I beat him here. His ego was a bit crushed, sorry Steve.
 |
| Stopping in the lovely town of Villafranca for a hot choccie is a good idea. |
 |
| Here is one clue to know where you are going. |
 |
| Extra clear direction, very good. |
 |
| Not so clear, but it is something. |
 |
| My usual albergue set up. Pink silk sleeping liner to stay warm and clothes drying at the end of the bed. Routine of the day: breakfast, leave by 8am at the latest, stop every 20 km for a snack, sunscreen and a stretch. Pee and water breaks all the way through. Arrive in next town, check in to albergue, stamp pilgrim passport, wash clothes, maybe a nap, dinner and maybe socialise, blog and bed. |
 |
| This is one of my favourite photos. All the pilgrims shoes, and behind, the highest peak of the Camino. |
 |
| The usual albergue chaos. |
Saturday September 2
13. O Cebreiro – Sarria (40 kilometres)
Minimum height: 450 meters
Maximum height: 1330 meters
Difficulty: Medium
There is a steep slope to crown the peak of Poio. From this point the
descent begins. The arrival to Triacastela is complicated due to stony
slopes. From this village there are two possibilities to get to Sarria.
The original one runs through San Xil, somewhat shorter but also with a
demanding section. The other variant passes through Samos, the location
of the famous monastery.
Another wonderful day involving about 30km of extreme
downhill down a mountain in Galicia in the cold and the fog. You cannot
feel more alive than this. The view is breathtaking and the feeling of
frozen fingers is intense!
 |
| The monestery in Somos. I love seeing how the shell symbol is incorporated in signs and in infrastructure. |
 |
| I could be one of the silent assassins from Game of Thrones. You can feel how cold it is here before we leave for the bike ride though, can't you? |
Jane
and Stewart, my new Aussie friends came along for the ride. I'm happy
I'm keeping an open mind. I think in normal life, I would probably never
even meet these two, as we are such different people, living different lives but they have
hearts of gold and we age sharing the Camino together, so we can bond
intensely with this experience. They have been very kind to me, shouting
me drinks, chippies and lollies and giving me a brand new tube of paw
paw ointment which I have missed so much!
After
20km downhill, we stop in a nearby village to warm our hands and souls
with coffees and hot chocolates. Steve, lanky Aussie, who I have
decided, takes himself too damn seriously gives us crap for accessing
the WiFi in the cafe. I'm happy I am someone who tried not to react
instantaneously. What I wanted to say was that it was not unreasonable
for a solo female traveller to want to let her Mum that she hadn't died
on a mountain after being away on Europe for months. PS Steve, I dont
think you need to take 3 months off work just to plan your trip to
Europe. Anyway, let's keep our opinions to ourselves shall we! PPS
Steve, I beat you up the mountain again. It's not a competition, unless
if you are up against a bit of a tosser. Then it is absolutely a
competition.
It was
great to arrive in Sarria at lunchtime instead of the late afternoon/
early evening and eat lunch time, at lunch time! We had our menu de
peregrinos, with 2 courses, desert and wine and discussed out different
experiences on the Camino and 'what it all means'. We plan to meet up in
Santiago at the end, which would be so great.
 |
| Jane, Stewart and Rasa, and all the food. |
The mosquitoes have caught me here. I can't see, hear or feel them. However
in typical Rasa style, I have accumulated about 20 bites that have
turned in to big red welts. I've started some steroids, as well as
antihistamines at night and every repellent and topical cream. It
usually does nothing to help, and I continue to look like I have the
plague, and that's okay. The plus side is that I have a citronella wrist
band that has this groovy pink pattern which matches my pink runners,
my pink wind proof jacket and my black and pink cycling shorts! Jane
suggested I buy 4 wrist bands and place them on both hands and feet. The
lady at the pharmacy felt this was a citronella overdose but
complimented me on my Spanish. :)
I
am two days from Santiago. I am sitting in my bunk writing this, crying
happy tears. I am overwhelmed my the amazing experiences the Camino has
given me as well as every experience and opportunity I have been given
in Europe since May this year. I know now that I have no reason to doubt
myself. I have not felt this happy in so long. I have reconnected with
my old friends in Europe and made beautiful connections with many more
new friends.
I am
excited to see my friends and family in Australia soon and to be in
Santiago. But of course in many ways, I don't want to reach Santiago as I
don't want this to end.
For
many of us, we have the opportunity to do many amazing things. Whether
that be in our relationships, in parenting, in work, in adventure in
caring for others. A small few of us, are given a leg up, due to our
status in the world. But many opportunities are being missed. The world
will open doors at times for opportunity, but sometimes we need to take a
risk and steer our course.
No
matter what happens after this, I will never regret steering my course
to make all this happen. I endeavors to take my big bag of experiences
and my relationships, no matter where I go.
Thank you El Camino, for having me on the journey.
Buen Camino,
Rasa
Sunday September 3
Day 14. Sarria – Palas de Rei (40 kilometres)
Minimum height: 360 meters
Maximum height: 730 meters
Difficulty: Medium
This stage can only be described as short but treacherous. The first stretch is smooth but can become complicated in times of rain because the ground can become muddy and, to unimaginable levels in rural Galicia.
Towards the end of the placid descent to Portomarín the most
complicated and demanding stretch of the stage begins, on uneven ground
and with considerable slopes.
Today was a big day! I would got the difficulty of this
cycle as high, or very high, not medium! Perhaps I am feeling extra
tired as I am due to arrive in Santiago tomorrow.
The
route sure was complicated, like a windy maze of bridges, stony,
rocky, muddy and uneven ground full of hills. I felt like I was in
'Mario cart'! It was tough but I loved it.
It
was great to ride through all the farmland. Normally I don't mind the
smell of a bit of cow or horse manure, as to me, it just smells earthy
and reminds me of the beautiful place that I am in, surrounded by lovely
creatures. However, the smell of manure through majority of this ride,
was beyond intense.
The
smells of the Camino are all a part of the great journey. Sometimes the
smells can also confuse you. For example at times, you think 'why does
it smell like it is burning'? 'Why does that mechanic shop smell like a
bakery'?
The weather was beautiful, crisp and fresh with the sun rising in the morning and dappled shade in the afternoon.
I
was scratching my mozzie bites all night, as you can't seem to stop
yourself doing that when you are groggy on antihistamines. As it turns
out, because I am 0 negative blood type, the mozzies love me. I also
have an autoimmune disease which means I flare up more and take longer
to heal. Its nice when it all makes sense!
Yesterday
in Sarria at lunch, with my Aussie couple friends, they briefly
introduced me to their Brazilian friend '. He brushed my arm
when he met me and smiled warmly, and it felt good. I asked my Aussie
friends what his story was. I am told that he is half Brazilian and half Spanish, they
say he is kind and single. He lived in Australia for 2 years and loved
it.
Today
on the trail, Jane and Stewart saw me and tried to block me as a
joke to get me to stop. I didn't actually realise it was them so I
laughed and kept going. Later when I decided to have a break, they
caught up with me, and I was delighted. Oh and Mister Brazil was there too, all
smiley and modest and handsome.
Another
Aussie woman, friends with Jane, offered me a brand new cycling t shirt
that she will not use as she is hiking. I asked her if I could give her
some money for it, but she told me all I had to do was give her a hug.
It even matches my cycling gloves! So kind.
I
explained that my $10 quick dry shirt from k mart has been worn in
Europe for months now. It still smells sweaty even after you wash it. It
also is covered in tire marks from when I pinned it to my pannier bags
when it was still wet and got caught up in the wheels.
I
was really inclined to chuck it in the bin, no one can want this shirt,
no one. My friends say that I might be surprised and to leave it on a
rock in case if someone wants it. Who knows, maybe someone will tip it
in half to make a sling or a bandanna.
I
got lost and ended up on some farm road where an aggressive dog chased
me on my bike. A poor Spanish Peregrina followed me in the wrong way
until she saw ms turning back. In glad she saw me turn back before she
encountered the dog.
Lots of stray cats around. I want to adopt them all of course. I saw one carrying a dead chicken today.
The
mal again said that the trail would be 40km, but again, it was 50km.
The difference of me cycling 10km means me missing lunch as I think I
will arrive on time. This makes me hangry, and that is not good for
anyone. But, the Camino will bring you all experiences!
With
5km left, I stop, hangrily and drink a chocolate milk, eat some
chippies and skittles and continue on. When I arrive, as tradition, I
eat my 3 course meal with wine. :)
The
albergue here is funny. The lady who owns it/ runs it, clearly doesnt
give too much of a crap about anyone of anything. The shower is
hilarious as the hardly Luke warm water turns off every 5 seconds, so
you dont event have enough time to get wet before you need to press the
button for more water again!
When
I arrive, Stewart and Jane message me with a photo of us, and a message
from Mister Brazil saying that he was hoping we would stop in the same town to
keep each other warm. I pass back on another msg through Stewart, saying
that I look forward to seeing them all in Santiago soon. I have asked
Stewart to swat away the silly 20 year olds away from him until
Santiago. :p
If all goes to plan, I will ride 70km tomorrow to arrive in Santiago. I can't believe it.
I
will have ten days in Santiago before Priscila meets me. What will I
do? Honestly aside from hanging out with trail buddies at the end, I am
keen to chill. Movies and writing and sleep will be good I think. I also
saw a sign talking about reflective prayer and group reflection in
Santiago, which might be nice to try out.
I
think it gets busy in Santiago , so I feel inclined to book some accommodation now in advance. At the same time though, Ive also learned
that the less I plan here, the better. We will see what happens!
Buen Camino.
Love Rasa
Monday September 4
Day 15. Palas de Rei -Santiago (69 kilometres)
Minimum height: 290 meters
Maximum height: 560 meters
Difficulty: Medium- High
The last day’s march and, the point at which energy levels begin to falter but having Santiago a
stone’s throw away encourages you to make one last effort. The climb to
Arzúa has complicated slopes comparable to the legendary climb to Monte do Gozo. The distance is considerable. Also bear in mind that some areas may be very muddy.
Today was part two of Mario cart. Yesterday was a the
moo moo meadows level, and today a mixture of moo moo meadows and bowers
castle.
I am getting
much better on these hills and am enjoying the rough and tumble of
downhill mountain biking. The bouncey bounce and jumpey jump of tires
over rocks and stones is a good way to stay mindful.
I
ate my morning tea with the cows and enjoyed the different smells of
pine and eucalyptus through the Forrest. Yes, eucalyptus!
I can barely keep my eyes open writing this.
I
had so much anticipation to get to Santiago, that I cannot be surprised
that it felt like an anti climax somehow. Firstly, I got lost. When I
finally reached Santiago, I thought there would be a big ceremony of
something? Instead it was a big line up (one hour)to retrieve my pilgrim
certificate, where I realised later that they spelled my name as
'Rosa'. Then it was scramble in the rain to find and overpriced and
fairly unfriendly albergue. Then I went to meet some others that I net
in the trail, couldnt find the bar and then they left as it was getting
late. There are tons of wierdos walking around and lots of people asking
me for money.
I told myself I wasn't expecting a pot of gold at the end, but I guess I was.
Now
I am thinking about all the things I need to do, errands, looking for
work and freaking out about what the emotional consequences might be if
I get together with this Brazilian boy. Also, I have finished the Camino
now, all 777km of it. That's an odd feeling.
I
guess in a lot of ways, completing a pilgrimage is a bit like
completing a marathon. There is all the build up, preparation,
anticipation, blood sweat and tears and then you reach the end. It feels
like you have somehow changed the world, in which you have not, but your
works has changed. Then you expect lots of gold stars. The reality is
that a few people will give you a pat on the back, and then everyone
gets back to their day to day things. Its better that way, it teaches
you to be humble.
One of
the guys from my albergue and another guys saw me walking past and
offered me a beer. It was a good way to finish the day, but I couldn't
stay for long, I am too emotionally and physically worn out.
Ive
splashed out and paid 7 euros to wash and dry my clothes. I'm grateful
to have a bed with supplied sheets and a blanket, even when I am in the
top bunk of a dorm of 4.
I
made it. Tomorrow I can have time to readjust, relax, and realise what I
have achieved and where I am, while I slowly chip away at life
administration.
Buen Camino.
Love Rasa
Monday September 4
All feels a bit better today. Now that I realise that it is normal to feel a bit deflated after completing such a big expedition.
Morning jog in Santiago, no bike today:
Candido asked me 'do you miss the bike?' I say, ' I don't miss the bike and I do at the same time!' One day at a time. Tomorrow I can start to breath in Santiago. I will visit the Cathedral, but only when I feel ready, as I feel this is a bit symbolic of me keeping some peace within me. And of course, what makes everything in life good, the relationships we keep with others.
I made it.
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| As it turns out, I am Rosa Kabaila (in latin), who has completed 799 km from France to Spain. |
Sunday September 10
It's only been about 5 days since I wrote, but I feel like a lot has happened.
I met up with my Australian friends, Stewart and Jane and Mister Brazil when they arrived in Santiago and we celebrated.
Jane and Stewart made their way to Portugal and then me and mister Brazil decided to go to Finisterra, the coast, which was previously known as 'the end of the world'. It is a beautiful little coast town of about 5 thousand people. We made it in time to see the sunset.
Photos from Finisterra:
The three days with Mr Brazil in Santiago and Finisterra coincided with my birthday (on the 7th of September) and they were a weird three days.
Mr Brazil asked if I would share my travel blog link with him, and I said I would, but... I won't!
How to summarise.... overseas romances are short, intense and somewhat confusing, fun but also difficult, at the best of times.
However, I feel, if you are going to do them, you may as well be 100% in. Saying goodbye is hard for both people, but trying to make boundaries doesn't make the goodbye any easier.
Having extreme hot and cold encounters with Mr Brazil left me feeling pretty crap. The last two romances I have had in Spain, I put both of the behaviors down to attachment difficulties due to the relationships with their father (having known a bit of what the relationship was from what they told me). Putting it down to this, makes you feel less hurt. But the thing is, someone being hot and cold with intimacy, does make you feel like crap.
I ended up having a calm conversation with Mister Brazil on the beach on my birthday, saying that I find the hot and cold thing hard to deal with, that I am not a robot, I am human. I re explained that I knew that this was not a reklationship, and how thes things work and how our time is limited. I didn't get much back. I was reminded that he thinks I'm a great person and really likes my company but is just not really an affectionate person.
Long story short, when we got back to Santiago, I found my own accommodation and was walking for 3km with a heavy backpack up hills, in tears, with no one to talk to.
The hostel was way out of the city, and I prayed it would be worth the trouble. When I arrived, I was greeted by manuel, one of the owners. Manuel is one of the friendliest and kindest people you would meet and the hostel, which really is a home, is beautiful and a true demonstration of how much Manuel and his family care about the house and their guests.
I realised I had one friend I could call, Nicole, in America. I called Nicole and sobbed. Nicole, soon to be a clinical psychologist, was validating and said 'so he has attachment issues and you are a lot more emotionally intelligent than him, that is not your fault.' During the conversation, my new roomie, Simon came to greet me. I told him I was a mess, but I didn't need to tell him that for him to believe it. Simon said he would make me some tea and said that I could tell him all about my woes.
About 5 minutes later, Simon came in again and asked if I was vegetarian. Another 10 minutes later, Simon told me that 'dinner was ready'. This time I sobbed and laughed simultaneously. I can't believe a person who just met me, could be this kind to me. Simone even offered to take me out, but I said I was happy just to chat with him. My friend Ella from the Camino also tried to coax me out to cheer me up. I am very blessed.
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| Thank you Simon. You fixed everything. |
Simon was super validating and sweet and shared his own story of having his fiance break up with him about a year ago. Simon has now finished a teaching degree, he is an iron man, he is positive, he avoids making plans whenever he can to live in the moment and lives life for him.
My conversation with Nicole and my time with Simon are the proof of great people in your life and great experiences becoming visible in difficult times.
Before bed, I met another Pilgrim, Patrick from Ireland who is feeling a bit low after finishing the Camino. Patrick told me he was going on a free walking tour the next day, and I said 'I'll join'!
In the morning, we met with Ella, who gave me loads of cuddles and kisses (also studying to be a psychologist, so she was also super validating). Ella tagged along for a part of the walking tour, so that we could hang out more. Ella is super tall and modelesque. She held me tight as we listened to the tour guide. Maybe I will fall in love with Ella!
With a bit of time to breath and love from others, I realise again that there is nothing I want to change about me, in the way that I give love to others. I would rather give love and feel burnt sometimes then protect myself and be cold.
We learned about the buildings in Santiago, and more about the history of the pilgrimage
Photos from the free walking tour today in Santiago.
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| Under construction. The Cathedral in Santiago is looking a bit like Sagrada Familia in Barcelona! |
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| I took this photo by accident, but how great is it! Look at that sneeky happy face of Patrick! |
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| Rasa, Patrick and the 'Two Maria's'. |
Here is a little story about the two Maria's, who were known to give the boys bottoms a little tap in the street!
The sisters were raised in a family of 13 siblings. During the
regime of Franco, three of the brothers had an active role in the
Confederacion Nacional del Trabajo, an organisation fighting against
the sovereignty of the Spanish general. The story goes, the brothers
were arrested and detained in the early 1950s and experienced consistent
emotional abuse, torture and excessive physical brutality. Upon
release, a brother passed due to injury whilst the other two went into
hiding. The family was consistently interogated as to their where
abouts as well as persecuted for harbouring fugitives. The impact of
this led to the death of the women’s parents and many of the siblings.
Both
ladies were trained as a seastress; however, because of the pressures
and attention on the family, they were often unable to find work. Many
of the locals were known to donate food and other items to the
women. In the early 1960s, it was reported that a storm tore down the
roof of their home and the town collected 250,00 pesetas in donations
which at the time was enough money for the ladies to purchase a new
flat.
Along with another sister who later died, the ladies
would habitually enter Alameda Park at 2 PM dressed in bright clothing,
high heels and even brighter make-up. They would gallivant around and
flirt with the local university students. Many locals suggest the
women experienced poor mental health due to the trauma which led to
this exuberant behaviour; whilst others thought the women were simply
trying to find some enjoyment in their troublesome life. The women
were regularly seen until the 1980s when Maruxa passed. Coralia left the
town of Santiago and died three years later.
The statues were laid by sculptor Cesar Lambera in 1994 in memory of the two women. Many locals depict the Two Marias
as unwell and flirtatious; whilst others view their lives
and statues as a symbol of the fight against oppression and inequality.
Following your Camino de Santiago, if you have any steps left in you,
go and visit the Two Marias and decide for yourself. Whether
you see the ladies as freedom fighters or tarty older women; the
ladies definitely continue to impact the modern day town of Santiago de
Compostela!
After the walking tour, Patrick and I headed to the market and ate fresh seafood with wine while having conversations about our reasons for doing the Camino; what we have found and what we still might be wanting to find in our lives.
Then we had churros!
I told Patrick that I have been afraid of going to church, as I feel this is the sign of my trip coming to a closure, and that I'm a bit scared of the next step. Patrick said he would come to mass with me, we visited the cathedral, then went to another church were we listened to the nuns singing after.
A lot of the pilgrims have been upset, because they expected the incense burner to swing, like how it does in the movie 'The Way'. Except, what we have found out, is that the church will only swing the incense burner if they receive a 400 Euro donation.
My friend Stewart made this cheeky photo in annoyance:
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| Here, I could pray. I thanked god, for everything and I prayed for everyone,. I thanked god for all my experiences, even the difficult ones I have no regrets. |
At 11pm, a big group of us finally made our way to meet each other to start the party.
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| Inexpensive and delicious wine with free tapas and lovely international friends is amazing. here is our group from Australia, The Netherlands, Brazil, Ireland, America and Germany. |
Following the big day in the city, I think I might be sick or run down. I've still managed to go running and get lost in the forest and I am walking 'Nicko' each day, the beautiful dog that belongs to the family at the hostel.
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| Getting lost on a forest run, with the scratches to prove it! |
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| Another accidental photo. But I love it. It's a little 'I'm a bit lost' isn't it? |
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| The view of Santiago from our lovely hostel. |
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| Walk me! |
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| I love Nicko. |
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| Okay, okay, let's go! |
I'm happy to have some time to rest and write. Tonight I might go to the pilgrims mass and then have a meal in the city, we'll see. In two days, my beautiful friend Priscila from Switzerland, will be meeting me and we'll go to the coast. :) Then it is Paris with someone from couchsurfing and then home...
I was offered a job in New Zealand, but I've turned it down as I think there are jobs that will be a better fit for me out there. It's a strange feeling when you think you know what you want, and then it's given to you, and then you realise that maybe your priorities are different to how you thought they were. I have so many idea of what I MIGHT want to do, but the idea of making any decision in that regard freaks me out a bit right now. But first things first, I just have to make the next little step and then see how that feels. Poco a poco (bit by bit).
Saturday September 16
Since I wrote last, I did eventually make it to the Pilgrim's mass at Santiago Cathedral, and I'm glad that I did. The priest told us at the end of the mass, that he hoped that what we experienced and learned on El Camino, would be things that would follow us through life. I hope so too.
Again, me and the Netherland boys and Patrick met for drinks at 1030pm. I can not keep up this lifestyle at home. These late nights kill me! But overseas, I do them, and smile. You have limited time with people here and you need to make the most of every minute with each other.
I'm sitting in an albergue in Santiago.
I have just returned from Sanxenxo, a little town in the Galician coast of Spain in the North, with my beautiful friend Priscila from Switzerland. Priscila flew in to Santiago meet me. Priscila is my soul sister from the other side of the world.
I was just walking in to buy a glass of wine from a cafe to obtain some wifi and text Priscila, and then I bumped in to her! A hundred cuddles and kisses were exchanged, Priscila got a glass of wine for herself and our second honeymoon began.
I'm finding it hard to write this, as Priscila has just left on her flight to see her family in Gran Canaria, and I'm sad to see her go. But as I said to her also, let's not make this goodbye, just see you soon.
I'm doing well in trying to convince Priscila to study on exchange at ANU in Canberra.
Priscila and I connect on all levels really. She is very spiritual, she always wants to help others, on small and larger scales, we love talking about relationships, we joke together, we both always try to be optimistic and we are open books.
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| Now that, is a hot chocolate. |
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| A typical display, Rasa's hand washing on the rails with a beautiful view behind it. |
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| Cheese icecream in a salad with balsamic vinegar. Spanish food is amazing. |
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| We walked around this cute little town through the markets to find Priscila a a toe ring. No tow ring, but this town is cute!We were able to sample some ice cold almond liquer (local), so I bought a bottle of it to take home. |
It's hard to sum up all the beautiful conversations that we had about everything, but this feels like perhaps my second or 3rd honeymoon with Priscila. First Bali, then Swtizerland, now the coast of Spain.
Off we went on our train and then a bus to Sanxenxo, a small coastal town in Galicia in Spain (in the North).
It's a small town and we had a lovely shared hotel room by the beach. This was all such a treat after staying in albergues with grotty peregrinos (not discounting my grottiness) for a few weeks.
Every morning we did yoga and went for a run on the beach. I swam every day. The water is quite fresh this time of year. Swimming in cold water in the ocean, with the whole beach to yourself, is such a positive way to start the day and change your body chemistry.
We went to a day spa and got pedicures and massages, and then got in trouble in the sauna for going in naked.
We had siestas, ate all the seafood and drank all the wine.
I'm so grateful to have Priscila in my life.
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| Witches in Galicia are meant to bring you good luck. |
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'L Madama' st is the work of Galician sculptor Alfonso Vilar Lamelas and has
become the most representative icon of the town of Sanxenxo. This
sculpture characterizes its location as it is perched on a rock (The
Stone Corbeiro) in the same sea at the start of the boardwalk. It was
donated in 1995 by the same author as a sign of love for the city and is
inspired by Celtic mythology and symbolizes the beauty of the sea.
|
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| 'La Madama' from afar. This is where Priscila had our morning run and swim each day. |
Tomorrow I take two flights to go to Paris where I will meet my new couchsurfing host Adam and will hopefully have dinner with Priscila's friend Pablo who I have not yet met.
And then I make my way back to Australia. How great, how sad, how strange all at once. One day at a time Rasa, one day at a time.
Gracias Camino de Santiago, Spain, and all my beautiful friends here.
Buen Camino,
